Infiniti Q45 / Nissan Cima FGY33 (FY33, Y33)

300ZX N/A (Z32) 4.083 ratio final drive swap
Home
FGY33 Info
Modifications
Fixes and DIY
Magazine Articles
My Q45 Photo Album
US Q45 (Y33) Pictures
JDM (Y33) Cima Pictures
Q45 Related Links
Guestbook

OBJECTIVES:

  • To improve off-the-line and mid-range acceleration WITHOUT spending a lot of money. 
  • To retain all other factory functions including LSD, ABS, and Traction Control.

SOLUTION:

  • An 300ZX N/A (Z32) 4.083 final drive costs from $100 - $300, depends on location and condition.
  • 4.083 ratio final drive (R200V) from an 300ZX N/A (Z32) is 100% identical to an '97-'01 Q45's R200V final drive (designated FY33 in the USA or FGY33 everywhere else in the world).
  • The ONLY difference is that the companion flange (propeller shaft flange) on the FGY33 is larger than the companion flange on the Z32 N/A.  Switch the flanges between them and you will have an 4.083 ratio final drive that will bolt-on perfectly to your '97-'01 Q45.  The side flanges on both cars have the same dimension and bolt-pattern so you won't have to worry about those.

fgy33diffvsz32diff.jpg
Click on the picture for larger size

fgy33diffvsz32diff-rear.jpg
Click on picture for larger size

PARTS & TOOLS LIST:

  • 300ZX N/A (Z32) final drive unit.  Mine came from an 1991 300ZX non-turbo, 5-speed, 2 seater with T-top.
  • Support ramps (I feel much more safer working under a supported by ramps rather than just jack stands), jack stands (for additional safety), trolley jack, wheel blockers, creeper (your choice - it made my job much easier).
  • Professional automotive tools kit (27mm socket will be needed - driveshaft flange bolt size).
  • Pulley remover kit.
  • A piece of wood, 1" thick is good enough.
  • Hammers (plastic and metal).
  • 2 quarts of gear oil (80W-90 is recommended for weather below 104 degF).  Synthetic is best.

PROCEDURE:

A. Remove the final drive :

  1. Drive vehicle on support ramps.  Support the jackpoints with jack stands for additional safety.  Block the wheels.
  2. Remove side flanges mounting bolts on both sides (10 bolts total).
  3. Remove ABS/TCS sensors (2).  If you can't remove them now because of the tight space, you can remove them later while lowering the final drive.
  4. Remove the air breather hose.
  5. Remove the companion flange bolts (4 bolts total).  To remove the upper bolts, put the tranmission in Neutral (N) and rotate the propeller shaft until you have the space to remove them.
  6. Support the final drive with a jack.  Place a piece of wood between them if you don't want to damage the gear carrier.  CAUTION:  Be very careful when handling the final drive.  Don't let it fall on your hands or any part of your body.  It weights close to 100 lbs. 
  7. Remove the final drive mounting bolts (2 front, 2 rear).
  8. Lower the final drive and take it outside.  You don't have to remove the exhaust to do this. 

B. Swap the companion flanges and possible modification of the rubber insert for front mounting bracket:

  1. When swapping the companion flanges, remember to hammer the flanges all the way down to prevent oil leaking.  Place a piece of wood on top of the flange and use a metal hammer.
  2. One of the rubber inserts for the mounting braket in the Q45's final drive may not fit the 300ZX's.  Trimming of the rubber insert is required to make it fit.

C. Install the final drive:

  1. The installation of the final drive is a reverse process of the removal with one exception:  I did not install the Q45 breather hose to the 300ZX breather valve because they're different.  The 300ZX breather valve was designed without a breather hose.
  2. Don't forget to fill the final drive with gear fluid if you haven't done that.

IMPORTANT NOTE:
There might be a clearance problem.  Pictures and solutions are discussed in the link below:

finaldrive.jpg

RESULT:

  • Significant improvement of acceleration (pending on 0-60 and 1/4 mile time).
  • ABS and TCS still work perfectly.
  • Speedometer is off by 10% (speedometer shows 70 MPH means your real speed is 63 MPH).  The error could be corrected with a YELLOW BOX electronic speedo re-calibrator, thanks to Rob (rsiwicki on www.NICOclub.com).  Link for the YELLOW BOX:  http://yellr.com/yb_home.htm. There is also a cheaper alternative for the Yellow Box:  the Digital Speedo Corrector from AutoSpeed.com.  Direct link (click on it and scroll down):  http://www.autospeed.com/shop/category_579/browse.html
  • Mileage with the 4.083: 1st tank - 15.3 MPG, 2nd tank - 15.35 MPG, 3rd tank - 16.09 MPG, 4th tank - 14.28 MPG, 5th tank - PENDING.